Lauder's relatively new Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex was replaced by this version, which has the exact same name except for the designation of "II" at the end, lest users of the former serum get confused. What's confusing to us is why they changed this product at all, given how similar the "II" version is to what preceded it.
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Formulary changes were minor, with only two ingredients (propanediol, which aids penetration, and hydrolyzed algin, which is a thickener) added and a handful removed. From our perspective, Lauder missed an opportunity to make a good serum considerably better!
Among the ingredients not present in the latest version of Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex are retinyl palmitate, lecithin, the intriguing plant extract Arabidopsis thaliana, a gel-like thickener, Green 5 (a dye), and a couple of preservatives, including methylparaben (which, despite media reports is perfectly safe for skin). Otherwise, despite different claims, this re-launch isn't a quantum leap ahead of the previous formula; in fact, if you routinely use the previous product, we doubt you'll notice any difference with the "II" version. And if you're wondering whether you should finally try Advanced Night Repair, wonder no more: This is a good serum though not among the best out there, and certainly not for what Lauder is charging.
Lauder claims that this version of Advanced Night Repair somehow stirs a "natural nighttime purification process" that's "vital" to getting and keeping younger skin. That sounds compelling, but the truth is that skin cannot tell time. With one exception (sunscreen actives) the ingredients that benefit aging skin the most are needed around the clock. Examples would be antioxidants and repairing agents, both ingredient categories Lauder uses in this serum as well as lots of others they (and the brands they own) sell. Despite claims of exclusive technology, this serum doesn't have the nighttime edge for aging skin. And what, exactly, is being "purified"? That makes it sound as though aging skin is somehow aligned with impure (read: dirty) skin, which is inaccurate. Skin is attempting to repair itself every second of each day—there's no research proving nighttime is the right time for anti-aging benefits.
Just as with the previous version of this serum the "II" formula contains tripeptide-32 and a friendly type of bacteria known as lactobacillus. Like many other peptides, tripeptide-32 has theoretical cell-communicating ability. It's theoretical because getting a peptide to reach its target site within the skin is difficult due to the presence of enzymes in skin that work to break down the peptide before it has a chance to work as claimed. However, tripeptide-32 appears to have a protective effect against proteins that damage cells, though there is no research proving it works when applied in small amounts to intact human skin (Sources: Neuroscience Letters, Volume 419, 2007, pages 247-252; and Folia Pharmacologica Japonica, Volume 129, 2007, page 18P). Still, it's a step in the right direction and clearly shows Lauder put some thought into the formula.
Lactobacillus ferment has multiple health benefits when consumed orally, but there is no research proving its merit for topical application on skin (Source: www.naturaldatabase.com). All told, this fragrance-free serum is suitable for all skin types, and leaves a slightly tacky finish on skin, but it's not a must-have anti-aging product or shining example of the best Lauder has to offer for signs of aging.
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